Cosmetic Conundrums

Question 

Every time I try to choose a foundation, the one I buy is never quite right.  How can I select the perfect shade?

Answer 

The perfect foundation should really blend invisibly into your skin tone.  Try testing the colours only where you plan to wear the foundation i.e. on your face.  Testing foundation on your hands or wrists will result in you choosing the wrong shade, as your face is always a slightly different colour.  Something else to remember is that facial skin is usually softer than the skin on your hands, and this will also mean that the foundation will sit differently on the two textures.


By all means, test a few shades on the back of your hands to determine the 'colour family' of your skin, making a short list of colours by weeding out the pinky shades if your skin has a warmer yellow cast.  Once you have determined the right 'colour family', try some dabs of a few different foundations on your cheek - what you are looking for is the one which is the least noticeable!  What seem like subtle difference in colour between your short listed foundations will be quite apparent when you have them all lined up on your cheek.

The test doesn't stop here though.  Remembering that artificial light always distorts colours, you must then check your skin in natural daylight by leaving the shop and checking in a hand mirror if necessary.

The final trick is to wipe off the stripes of colour and apply a little of the chosen foundation onto your face again, then check the colour after forty-five minutes.  This allows long enough for the pH balance of your skin to settle with the foundation which, very occasionally, can lead to a slight change in the colour of the foundation you've chosen.

It is also important to bear in mind your skin type when selecting a foundation, and always match up the correct formulation.  For instance choose an oil-free base for an oily skin, or a creamy moisturising formula for a drier skin.  If you choose the wrong type of formulation, the foundation will not sit well on your complexion and the colour match could be slightly off.

Question

Every time I try to use an eyeliner pencil or, even worse, an eyelining pen, the result is dark and smudgy.  How do I achieve definition which looks dramatic but not unnatural?

Answer

For drama, keep strong eyeliner to either the top or bottom lashes - not usually both.  A smoky-eyed look is equally effective when colour is smudged all the way along the under-edge of the eye, then softened with no definition on the top lid except a lick of mascara.

Eyeliner pens need to be soft enough to colour the area without dragging the skin, but they shouldn't be too soft to leave a splodgy mess.  A pencil that is too hard can be warmed in a pocket close to the skin for five minutes, alternatively a too-soft pencil should be kept in the fridge.

For an ultra-natural look, use an eyeliner pencil to draw a line of tiny dots very close to the top lashes, then blend these together with a sponge applicator.  If you want a more intense line of colour, set the eyepencil with some matching eye-shadow carefully 'planted' along the eyeliner, this will also seal the waxiness of the pencil and help the colour last all day.

Eyeliner pens are excellent for a dramatic style, but the nature of their liquid quality means it easily goes wrong if you aren't careful.  The trick is to stretch the skin of the eyelid slightly with your fingers, then apply the eyeliner in a sleek motion from inner corner to outer corner.  Keep very close to the lashes and apply a thin line which can be built up if required.  If you really can't get to grips with pencils or pen eyeliners, just use a favourite eye-shadow applied with a fine dampened brush - much easier.

Question

My skin is quite tanned from the summer so my usual foundation looks dreadful.  How do I choose a shade that shows off my tan but doesn't make my skin look too orange.

Answer

If you have a tan, the chances are your skin is looking clearer than usual so why not try using a tinted moisturiser or a bronzing gel to enhance your tan.  One word of warning though, go sparingly with these products or you will look remarkably orange if you apply too much!

Any blemishes or dark circles under the eyes can be painted out by using a concealer applied with a tiny make-up brush then patted in with your finger-tip - a good rule is to apply concealer over your tinted moisturiser or bronzing gel and if you have difficulty finding the right shade, select a light and a dark concealer.  Then depending on your new skin colour, blend the two shades together on the back of your hand using your tiny make-up brush until you achieve the correct colour match.
 
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